In my family, vacations had only two rules: first, every available minute of
every day had to be spent in the car, moving; second, never turn back, and never
stop. No matter what.
As long as I can remember, Dad’s motto has been, if you can’t see it at 65
miles per hour, it probably isn’t worth seeing to begin with.
Each morning, in the pitch dark, he’d wake us with his favorite John Wayne
quote, yelling, "You’re burning daylight," and while my brother and sisters and
I stumbled, wondering exactly where all this daylight was, Dad was mapping out
our day of running like fugitives.
But there was always one simple compensation: although my father would never,
ever stop, he made up for it by having the sharpest eyes this planet has known.
Driving across the country each summer, we missed nothing. Well, okay, so he had
an utter inability to see rest stops and roadside attractions, but it seemed
like my father could spot a deer hiding behind a cement wall, a snake five feet
down in its burrow, his eyes were so good. Superman would have wept with envy to
have eyes like my father’s.
And what Dad liked to see the most were birds. There was no need to stop—you
could enjoy the wild without taking your hands from the steering wheel. Through
the windows of our old blue Plymouth Fury, he’d point out hawks on the wing,
kingfishers in thick brush waiting to dive, the angled line of fulmars somehow
staying aloft in hurricane winds. He knew gull species by the shapes of their
beating wings, and he could tell a three-toed woodpecker from a black-backed
woodpecker—two species that are almost identical in flight—at a thousand yards.
I was raised to be a roadside birder.
The Audubon Society says that over 70 million Americans participate in
birding—from the hardcore birders with their spotting scopes the size of
baseball bats, to the people who just like to put out a birdfeeder and watch the
chickadees come.
Audubon might not recognize roadside birding as a distinct subcategory, but
it’s one with infinite richness and possibility. The roadside birder is simply
out to make the driving experience better, putting a name to what flies past.
This is what my father taught me: It’s utterly amazing how much you can see from
the comfort of your own car, how much is out there right next to the road. All
you have to do is look.
And luckily for us, Arizona is about the best place in the country to be a
roadside birder. The state has ridiculously rich birdlife: 414 documented
species, plus another fifty or so that appear as quirks of fate or weather. I’ve
seen pelicans over Old Scottsdale. I’ve had ravens fly loops down the road in
front of me, been attacked by owls at highway rest stops, and seen Bald eagles
perched on fence posts. I once had a Cooper’s hawk swoop next to my car in
Papago Park, grab a ground squirrel, and accelerate back into the sky so fast
that it zipped past my speeding Toyota like I was parked. Arizona has more
hummingbirds than anybody, period. We’ve also got an odd number of water
species, my personal favorites: coots and White-faced ibis, Tundra swans and
Blue-winged teals, and dozens more. Thanks to the proliferation of golf courses,
Arizona might have more Canada geese than Canada at this point.
I’ve traveled with the serious birders—stood by while they leaped up and down
with joy because some bird was a hundred miles south of where it should have
been. I’ve watched them whistle their birdcalls at trees and wait, with infinite
patience, for an answer. I once spent a week on a boat in the Aleutians with
fifty people desperate to see a whiskered auklet. But I have to admit it: the
details boggle me. If I’d ever been inclined to be a serious birder, the kind
who knows migration routes and tertial or greater covert colors, my desires were
cut short when I found out that the only thing separating a whiskered auklet
from a crested auklet is one feather that is only noticeable when the bird is
dry.
Auklets are never dry. That’s why they live in the ocean. Because they don’t
want to be dry.
So much for being a serious birder.
Happily, I’ve got roadside birding to fall back on. Roadside birding has all
of the fun of serious birding, all the rewards, all the challenge, and none of
the standing in a thorn bush at five in the morning trying to hide from a vireo
or Pygmy nuthatch that would fit in a tea cup and still have room left over.
You can work out your own way to do this, but my personal roadside birding
rules are simple. Birding while the car is still moving—the faster the better—is
the ideal of course, but unlike my father, I’ll stop from time to time and allow
a hundred yards or so from parking spaces as legitimate birding territory.
Binoculars are okay, but not if they cost more than you car did. Yes, I’ve
looked through incredible binocs, but somehow, the thought of a couple thousand
dollars worth of glass hanging around my neck stops me cold.
Because you’re never going to get very far from the vehicle, you can use the
heaviest bird identification guide you can find. I like the quite hefty Sibley’s Guide to Birds, which not only has good illustrations of plumage
variations through the year, but more importantly has flight profiles, essential
for a good roadside birder—a lot of the birds you see are going to be on the
wing, and it’s essential to know the difference between the profile of, say, a
swift as opposed to a swallow. The smaller Audubon and Kaufman guides, which
have easier-to-use layouts, are good for back-up, and they make spotting color
variations quick and easy. However, they’re more for people who deeply, truly
care which of the 37 species of sparrows they’re looking at. The roadside birder
should always be willing to let fine details slide in favor of the larger
project. Be happy you’re catching sparrows in mid-flight, but worry about
whether they’re Fox, Lincoln, Song, or White-crowned some day when you’re home
sick and there’s nothing to watch on TV.
It is a little difficult at first learning what to look for, but with only a
little practice, the birds start to make sense. You’re looking for silhouettes
and patterns, quickly recognized signatures in flight or perching behavior. In
other words, you’re looking for the easy stuff.
Roadside birding isn’t really about fine details; no way can you tell the
difference between a Costa’s hummingbird and a Black-chinned—both are fairly
common in southern Arizona, with the Black-chinned showing up throughout the
state—at highway speeds. Better to notice "hummingbird," to notice the flash of
the green back and the iridescent purple chins that set these two apart from the
red-chinned Anna’s hummingbird that hangs out in much the same territory.
Of course, the bigger the bird, the easier it gets, and again, Arizona is the
place to be. Just a couple quick examples. In the deserts, the showman is the
Turkey vulture, with wings spanning five feet, and that ability to fly for hours
without ever seeming to twitch a feather. When the Boyce Thompson Arboretum has
its annual hello and goodbye parties for the vultures, you might see hundreds in
a huge, swirling kettle, looking for the perfect thermal. South of Tucson,
there’s always a chance of seeing the even bigger Black vulture; distinguish the
two by the Turkey vulture’s red head, the Black vulture’s wings that are only
white on the tips, instead of all the way along the back edge, like the turkey
vulture.
Smaller and faster are the hawks: Red tails have—just like you’d expect—a red
tail that shows up from a mile away when it glints in the light. Sharp-shinned
hawks have sharper tails, and a Cooper’s hawk looks like a red tail, but without
the red tail.
The true beauty of being a roadside birder is that you can do it any time,
anywhere. When you’re stopped at a red light, why read the bumper stickers on
the car ahead of you when you can be watching house finches pick at grass seed
in front of a fast-food restaurant?
But that said, of course, some places offer more possibility than others. And
so where should you go in this paradise of the roadside birder? What’s out there
to see besides that symbol of the state, the roadrunner? In the Phoenix metro
area alone, the Scottsdale greenbelt has Black-crowned night herons, Green
herons, migrating Sandhill cranes, gadwalls, coots, and probably a dozen species
of duck. Go a little further afield to where the Gila River turns into a wide,
slow marsh near Firebird Raceway, and you’ll find flocks of Snowy and Great
egrets, impossibly white against the blue sky and gray mountains, flying by. The
same marsh has ospreys, Double-crested cormorants, Black-bellied whistling
ducks. Great blue herons—which you can find near almost any body of water in
Arizona—fold their necks into origami shapes. The fields nearby have phoebes,
juncos, Chipping sparrows, killdeer, snipes, and Gila woodpeckers. On a single
day here one winter, we counted upwards of eighty species.
Golf courses and parks anywhere in the state are good places to look. The
abundant water and grass bring birds in like they were magnetized. From the
common—moorhens and American avocets, which look like penguins that got carried
away in the leg and beak department—to the much more rare, such as the
Black-legged kittiwake, usually found only in oceans, they’re all there.
The Tucson Audbon Society makes roadside birding easy in their book Finding Birds in Southeast Arizona. "Accessibility: Most roads in the Forest
can be birded from a car." Drive-through birding, as it were, in the Chiricahuas,
where you can see creepers—they only climb up trees, never down—chickadees,
nuthatches, kinglets, and other small birds you might miss at full highway
speed, but they’re perfect for the pace of a side road. Near Kitt Peak—again,
without bothering to get out of the car—they suggest you watch for the broad,
square wings of Golden eagles, for Rock wrens, Canyon wrens. No real need to
slow down for those.
If you’re in southern Arizona and feeling a little sybaritic, hang out in
Madera Canyon, south of Tucson. This is a crossing point for Arizona species and
Mexican birds that come up over the summer. Most famous are the hummingbirds
that hang out at the feeders in front of the Santa Rita Lodge Nature Resort.
Despite their small size, an hour or so of watching hummingbirds will convince
you of one thing: these are mean, nasty little birds. They spend more time
fighting each other off than they do actually sucking nectar from the feeders.
Still in southern Arizona, if you’re a waterbird fan like I am, you can’t
miss Patagonia Lake State Park. In winter, this is the place to be if you’ve got
webbed feet: Neotropical cormorants whose long black necks make them look like
giraffes on the wing, mergansers, grebes, and enough species of duck that after
a while you’ll just put the bird book down and be happy watching them swim
around, like flying toasters on a computer screen saver. The past couple of
winters, there’s been an Elegant trogon—red belly, green wings, and much more at
home further south in Mexico—hanging out here.
If you’re in the northern end of the state, don’t despair: there’s still
plenty of roadside birding pleasure. The Mogollon Rim has Great horned owls and
Flammulated owls—no, I don’t know what "flammulated" means, either. Leave it for
the specialists. For us, it’s enough to know that their wings look longer and
more pointed than most owls.
Around Williams, or driving between Heber and Holbrook, watch for Bald
eagles—the famed white head on the adults, or the brown, mottled bodies of the
juveniles. Bald eagles winter at Coleman Lake, just outside Williams, and it’s
not a bad place to see turkeys, low on the ground and looking like seriously
wild feather dusters. Turkeys can fly, but they’re not all that big on the idea,
so you have to watch for them the way you’d watch for javalina or coyotes: brown
shapes moving against the forest backdrop. Wild toms are big enough to stare
straight into the windows of a jacked-up SUV.
All along the Colorado River, you’re in owl and hawk paradise, a land full of
small, furry animals to swoop. From roads around Kingman, you might see Great
horned, Spotted, Western, and Screech owls—even that Flammulated owl, doing
whatever it is flammulating requires. Golden eagles and Ferruginous hawks catch
thermals over the river. By Parker, drive through the Bill Williams Delta
Wildlife Refuge for Snow geese, which look like patches of fog flying by. There
are more egrets than you’d think Arizona could hold, and White pelicans—that you
absolutely know have to be lost beyond all hope—stand around, chins hanging like
crepe paper streamers.
At the north rim of the Grand Canyon, check the brush for Blue grouse, the
tall sides of trees for Williamson’s sapsucker. Prairie falcons dive for
squirrels—maybe even for those long-eared Kaibab squirrels, which don’t hang out
anywhere else. Hey, just because you’re looking at birds, it’s no excuse to be
ignoring everything else.
Because in the end, here’s the true lesson and delight of the roadside
birder, those who count their travels not in miles per gallon, but in birds per
mile. All that the world requires of you is attention, and it will in turn
reward you with infinite, glorious variety.
So what if my father never once let us stop so we could buy genuine beaded
moccasins, or fake alligator-skin wallets. Doesn’t matter so much. Instead, he
taught us this: get out there and open your eyes. You’re burning daylight.
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